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Grottaglie
Photo: Velvet

Grottaglie

If you’re a fan of ceramics, Grottaglie is the place for you. Located a few kilometres from Taranto, the “city of many caves” is a city built on a whole rock of limestone. As well as ceramics, the city is also famous for its history, wine and art.

It is thought humans arrived in Grottaglie during the Paleolithic Age. Although, the earliest recorded origin was during the Medieval period when settlers began to make Grottaglie’s caves their own. This is when city residents started to experiment with ceramics - more on that later!

As well as caves, the city is known for its distinctive look. The limestone has deep ravines wedged into it, which surround the countryside based around the city. Its completely unique appearance adds to the mystery of the place.

Grottaglie is a wonderful mix of the ancient and modern. The city boasts quite a progressive modern economy, exporting the finest grapes and ceramics. Alenia Composite, based in the city, also has a large contract producing parts for Boeing 787 aircrafts.

However, despite its developing economy, Grottaglie is largely visited for its historic buildings. One of the most famous is La Chiesa Madre (‘The Mother Church’), in Piazza Regina Margherita. This is the oldest church in Grottaglie, having been built in 1379. The Palazzo Cicinelli (Cicinelli Palace), from the 17th century, is also one of the most popular stops for tourists. Other famous stops are Palazzo Blasi and San Francesco di Paola (a Baroque monastery).

But you don’t have to move far in the city to come face-to-face with ceramics. There are two traditions in Grottaglie ceramics. Arte ruagnara is the first, which focuses on the production of kitchen utensils and everyday ‘peasant’ objects. The second is the faenzara which focuses more on highly decorated objects similar to the art Majolica, which displays tin-glazed pottery decorated in colours on a white background.

There are approximately 50 ceramics workshops in the city. Some of the most popular are Ceramiche Nicola Fasano, Bottega Vestita and Cinzia Fasano Ceramiche. In the Il Quartiere delle Ceramiche (‘Ceramics Quarter’) you can also find the Grottaglie Ceramics Museum and the Casa Vestita Museum, a private palazzo with a 19th century garden and wonderful ceramic exhibits.

Cuisine in the city is as rich as any other in Puglia. Perhaps the main dish is one of the most simple: pasta con doppia salsa (‘pasta with double tomato sauce’). An example of a typical Grottaglien restaurant is an osteria called “La Capasa” which, tourists are often surprised to see, serves horse meat.

Other dishes include Fave e cicoria (fava beans with chicory), salsiccia sausage, orecchiette with tomatoes and Spaghetti con fagiolini (spaghetti with green beans). This can be washed down with a homemade bay leaf grappa

In August, the city hosts a Ceramics Exhibition competition, now in its 29th year, and a Nativity exhibition, held every December. Both of thiese prestigious events are held at the stunning Episcopio Castle.
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